DEAR ALIZARIN: Lychee en Heredia

Day three of language school in Heredia. Yesterday, my host father told his brother-in-law how impressed he was by how my Spanish has already improved. What can I say? There is the chance I did not properly understand what he said, but I am sticking to this interpretation as no one has proof otherwise. Though I think for one week at home and three days at school I am doing well, I think I just have a talent for non-language based communication and general intuition. Or common sense. But if they want to think I am brilliant, I won't argue. He then told me that I should come back another year and stay with them, which flattered me as sometimes I wonder if I do anything that seems impolite or annoying to them. Particularly since the first night I went out with other students for drinks. However, despite being retired, they are very hip and respect me for the adult that I am (or think I am).

Getting to Heredia was a bit precarious. I could not get in touch with the school or my host family over the weekend, so just hopped on the bus from La Fortuna to San Jose to figure out the journey as I went along. In San Jose there is no central bus terminal, so once I arrived I had to decide whether to walk or take a cab to the Heredia bus stop. On my map it was only six blocks, so I practiced my little of bit of Spanish and made sure I was headed in the right direction. It was still mid-afternoon and figured it would be ok. I second guessed not taking a cab as I zigzagged across the street to avoid the people and other shady characters sleeping on the sidewalks. I made it to the general area and asked several people for the bus to Heredia. I could not understand everyone's confusion until I remembered the 'h' in Spanish is always silent.

Once we got to Heredia, there were several stops and I had no idea where to get off. When the driver asked I just said the central terminal, which turns out to be block in the center of town bustling with lines of people and more shady characters. I originally planned to try to call my family again, but did not see a phone anywhere and felt too vulnerable to be still for that long anyone, so I hopped in the first cab I could find and showed him the directions from the email. I figured anywhere in town would be better than there.

During my cab ride to my family's house, seeing more of the same deserted town look, houses with large metal gates, I immediately questioned what my friend was thinking when she recommended going to school here. Heredia was not the picturesque Costa Rican town I expected. We arrived at the papaya colored house with three almond trees in front. Here it goes. Luckily, someone was home. From the sidewalk outside the gate, I saw an endearing elderly couple some see who this strange woman was banging on the gate. "Estudiante de Intercultura" I managed to say in my rudimentary Spanish. They looked at each other with surprise, let me in, and served me coffee and biscuits. From what I gathered, they did not know I was coming and were amazed I found my way there on my own. They showed me to my huge room in a separate upstairs section of the house. I have my own bathroom and more than enough room to do yoga next to the double bed, desk, and dresser. There is also a balcony and view of some mountains. After letting me settle in a bit, they called me downstairs, indicating we were heading out. We climbed into the SUV and ended up at their children’s' homes to introduce me, I guess. On the way they made several stops, one of which turned out to be Chinese takeout. I guess they were not expecting company for dinner. It was quite good shrimp fried rice. Somehow I understood I needed to be ready to leave for school by 7:30am the next morning. It was a relaxing and restful night and a very comfy bed. I almost forgot I wasn't home.

The next morning my host father walked me to the school and again, I was wondering about my friend's recommendation as I took in the stuccoed houses stacked side by side along the narrow streets lined with deep gutters. Moving from the residential areas to downtown the squished homes turn into squatting businesses behind metal gates. There is one central park surrounded by a church and some historic buildings, but other than that, the town is a bit cold and unappealing. I have not even been able to find a cozy cafe to work in, though internet cafes are on almost every block. Actually, Heredia reminds me a lot of Hungary. My new friends laughed at me for the comment last night over beers, but it is true and not expected.

Arriving at the school and entering through the doors is like entering a portal to a new world. The garden in the front foreshadows the festive and well-manicured interior of the school building. Inside, the walls are all painted in bright earthy colors of peaches and ambers with murals of salamanders, turtles, and flora that reflect a Central American style. In the center of the school are several small courtyards with umbrellaed tables. The class rooms are bright and airy, a bit plain a sterile, yet comfortable. There are tables for the small interactive classes rather than individual desks. There is a comfortable lounge area next to the receptionist, one computer for quick internet use, and a coffee and refreshments area. Immediately, everyone speaks to you in slow and patient Spanish, beginning your instruction from the moment you enter the walls of the school. The staff is friendly, always willing to help and let me figure out how to say what I want in Spanish. Really an amazing way to start studying a langauge. That coupled with living with a local family and my fabulous instructor has allowed me to feel that I have progressed greatly in three days -- perhaps more than I would have after 3 weeks going to a weekly class in LA.

The other students are from all over and a few are not just out of high school or college, which is a relief, though I do feel old at times. For example, in the bar last night I made a reference to the TV series, Fame, and this 20 year old girl from Canada looked at me as though I were talking about a different planet. Also, in my class, I am the second oldest, out aging even my instructor (he is only three years behind and I think I have convinced him to at least consider the possibility that life gets better after 30). In my class there is one French-Canadian man (the one member who is older than me), a young Canadian woman, a young man from Holland, and another woman from Washington D.C. I like the rapport our class has and our professor's amicable and charming teaching style really helps to set everyone at ease as we waddle our way through this new language. I also admire that he really seems to include himself in the class, sharing the same information about himself that he is asking us to share and is so patient as I haltingly try to convey my ideas in Spanish, though we did switch to English for a stimulating conversation about education and teaching during the break today.

In addition to my Spanish language study, I am getting lots of practice salsa dancing. They have two hours of classes every afternoon and many of the local guys who are studying English at the school attend. They are all very good and I must admit I prefer dancing with them than with the non-locals as they are mostly just learning and overall lack the grace and confidence of the Costa Ricans. Today, two of my partners complimented my dancing, so those lessons in LA really paid off, I think. Tomorrow night a group of us will go out on the town dancing. It is ladies night at the local dance club.

The week is going quickly and I really regret that I cannot stay longer. It just means I will have to return another time. Two more excursions are planned. First, tomorrow afternoon I will go with a group from the school to visit a waterfall and coffee farm. Then, it is definitely off to Manuel Antonio. I think I have almost persuaded my friend's friend from NYC to go with me. I hear they have all night parties with salsa dancing on the beach! And everyone says it is beautiful and that I will definitely see monkeys.

The only thing I have to look forward to returning is my apartment and your visit in August. Did you book your flight yet?

Hasta luego,

Lychee