DEAR ALIZARIN: Lychee's Seattle Review

First impression is one of a place that is antiquated and too laid back for its own good. Or, as my friend, Jenna, later confirmed, it could be the cheapness of Alaska airlines. The airport is old and dreary, requiring a long hike to the baggage claim. As best as I can tell, there is only one for all terminals. Delays in unloading are announced. I realize that all flights are unloaded onto one carousel. The bag's of the flight that they just announced would be delayed is now arriving on the carousel, making me wonder if it is my flight that will take 20 minutes due to damage to the baggage door. A few minutes later, I have my bag and am out the door.

The cool air energizes me as I step out and hope to spot Jenna in her flex car. A quick drive up the freeway and we are in a town that looks unexpected like parts of north jersey: residential city streets with brick building bars on the corners. She drops me at the door as she parks the flex car downhill. I enter into a cozy one bedroom apparent expertly decorated via Ikea. The apartment features large windows surrounded by hardwood frames leading to a hardwood ceiling. Adam admits it is perplexing. I refrain from making a bad joke about dancing on ceilings.

We talk until our eyelids grow heavy. I dream strange dreams about Seattle as unfriendly and dangerous. Not a good omen. And far from the reality.

We head out around 11:30 am for breakfast at Glo’s, a Capitol Hill favorite, known for good, cheap food and bad service. It takes us until noon to get our coffee, which is strong and hot.

Jenna takes me on a walking tour of the city as there is only one day to orient me before they leave town for work. I am impressed by the compactness of the city. Though large, we walk everywhere. Granted, if I were working and had appointments, the walking would be problematic, but for the scheduleless, it works. We visit the brand new central library, all glass and sunshine. The reading room on the top floor provides a beautiful view of the city. I find out there are infinite beautiful views of the city, as though designed to provide new and inspiring vistas of concrete, sky, and water as you move from one spot to the next.

We hike back up to their neighborhood and stop for coffee and doughnuts at Top Pot Café. As hyped, both are top notch.

Next, more walking. Through the ‘Harvard Exit’ district where moderate apartments give way to northwest style mansions, some brick and mortar monoliths, others cozy wood framed homes surrounded by humbly lavish gardens. This leads us to Volunteer Park and a stunning view of the sunset. Next, we trudge up to the Organic Market. I, at this point, am having trouble keeping up with these Seattle city hikers, going on my third hour of walking without, I realize a proper meal. I am relieved to pick up a protein drink to tide me over to dinner. Fifteen minutes later, as the temperature drops, we are home and order a very garlicky pizza.

I wake up to another perfectly blue, sunny day and prepare to head out on my own. I start off as I would think any Seattleite starts off, with coffee and doughnut. After a bit of dawdling, I finally hike down to Pike Place Market. It is writhe with specialty shops, cafes and pastries. I find Rachel the brass pig, see the ‘flying fish’ vendors, and stop for lunch at the Three Girls Bakery. I sit down and get flirted with by the redheaded man behind the counter who looks like he just came off a fishing boat. Patrick asks how my day was yesterday. Bewildered at first, I realize he is fishing about Valentine’s Day stories. I forgot it was yesterday. The man next to me jumps in when I say I am from LA. He is surprised I found such a local place for lunch (though it is in the midst of the touristy market) and tells me about how he is thinking of getting into post production. We chat business for a while. I leave feeling welcomed and comfortable in this city.

Strolling through the crafts section of the market, I taste my way from the pepper jelly, through the jams, past the honey and onto the Chukar Cherries stands.

Then I head up to historic Pioneer Square.
This is the original center of Seattle, but now feels like a ghost town with a few galleries and cafes to keep people coming. Mostly, the streets are populated by homeless. I find the Klondike museum in its new location and the enthusiasm of the attendant reminds me that it is definitely not tourist season in Seattle. In fact, he ends up giving me recommendations for places to hike in northwest LA County.


After covering both places in the 4 hours the tour book recommended for one, I head back to Capital Hill
stop by the apartment, eat, and pack up the laptop for some internet café work.


Today was much the same. I visited the Frye Museum (interesting photo exhibit by Candida Hofer) and the Seattle Asian Art Museum (interesting exhibit on Buddhist Art).

And this is Seattle. Sunny, cold, walkable.

And all about espresso more than coffee. I am disappointed. Today, both places only served espresso drinks (or Americano), but not good ‘ole American Drip Coffee. Eugene beats Seattle on that hands down.

People are polite and nice, but not very outgoing.

Seattle lacks an edge. Three days and I feel I’ve seen the city. Except for the outlying islands and the parks. But how often could you do that? And LA has Griffith Park as well as all of the Santa Monica Mountains. And the desert. And Big Bear (not that I’ve been there yet, either). Once that is done, there isn't muct to see. Even people watching is not really an sustainable pasttime.

Seattle is vanilla. A really good, smooth, organic vanilla, but still vanilla.

So, once again, a lovely city, but not enough to compel me to uproot myself again.